Day 45: Baldersdale – Stainmore Forest – Bowes Moor – Tan Hill – Keld

14.9 miles – Milky-blue skies, lemon-blancmange sunshine, breezy, overcast later

A thistle in the morning sunshine.

I spent almost all the day on moorland; it’s wild and beautiful… perhaps it’s that I’ve had so much of it on my walk, perhaps it’s that I had slept badly last night – whatever the reason, it just didn’t enchant me as it should.

A change in the climate south of Teesdale? Despite the vatfuls of rain which emptied themselves on me, the River Greta is almost dry.
Sleightholm Beck with Bowes Moor in the background.
Yet more moorland – looking north east from Tan hill

The morning was a long, gentle climb to Tan Hill, where you can find the highest pub in England; “The worst pub in England,” a blunt Yorkshireman I passed added. A little unfair, I think; overpriced, yes, unimaginative choice of beer, true, but it was well-kept.

The bar at the Tan Hill Inn

The afternoon was a slow descent from Tan hill into Swaledale and the village of Keld. The further I walked, the more the initially eventless moorland opened into deep, picturesque valleys.

The very best bit was right at the end, where I pitched my tent next to a stunning waterfall alongside the tent of Matt and Mary from Brighton, who are walking from John o’ Groats to Land’s End, and whom I had met at their pitch in Baldersdale yesterday, and who had passed three times today.

The waterfall at Keld in the only half-minute of evening sunshine.

Comments (2):

  1. Matt

    10 July 2022 at 17:35

    Was so good to meet you Toby, we’ve loved reading your blog! We’d love to keep up with you on the Pennine Way but think that you’ve overtaken us by now. If you’ve got TikTok we post there nearly every day under @marymatthikes if you’d like to follow us!

    Reply
  2. Matt

    10 July 2022 at 17:35

    Also thank you for the note you left on our tent it really made us smile!

    Reply

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